The streets are lined with freestanding campaign banners. Giant photos of candidates with only a line or two of text and their ballot numbers are at every turn - literally. Not that they aren't to other cultures, including ours - but images matter tremendously to Thais. Most of the message is given through the giant photo.
A female candidate stands at attention in her well-decorated naval uniform. An older man - with clearly died hair - has a wry smile with a look of wisdom. One middle aged man looks upward with a smile and his arms crossed - a visionary, a forward thinker.
Then there's another middle aged man with a series of different images - holding hands to his head in shock and exasperation, holding a poor, small child, holding a dog like a baby.... his face always animated with concern or frustration. He's my favorite. I know nothing about him and I'd probably vote for him.
The amazing part is that in a strange turn of events, Thailand has quickly developed into one of the most liberal and successful countries in Southeast Asia.
Unlike first-world economic powerhouse Singapore or more economically rising Malaysia to the south, Thailand's political landscape is far more diverse. It's had more than one party come to power and elections are truly free and open. Thais participate in an active democracy with strong political discourse. Choice has become real.
Of course, it's not without problems. Anyone who follows the news knows that Bangkok has seen its share of ongoing political protests and even a few riots over the past four years. Over the past eight years, there have been two coups and courts have overturned governments based on charges of corruption.
Last year, riots fueled by the opposition party became so violent and out of control that the Prime Minister Vejjajiva was caught between resigning or taking a forceful stand. He had been backed into a very difficult political corner. With incredible fortitude and no shortage of controversy, the young Oxford educated economist used force to end the riots, without declaring martial law or wholly crushing the opposition.
While I'm sure many would say otherwise, I believe that Vejjajiva's decisions helped restore, if not advance the idea of loyal opposition which is a critical ingredient in the recipe for democracy.
As Thais began to develop successful opposition movements and multiple voices in the long repressed political spectrum, they began the dangerous game of trying to nullify or coup whichever party had gained power. Parties brought "power to the people" by breaking down the system.
When this happens in most countries, it begins a downward spiral of political degradation that can easily lead to civil war and certainly to economic instability,
Somehow, Thais remained cohesive enough to continue tremendous economic progress despite political divisions.
Most importantly, Vejjajiva's decision not to back down, nor to become a repressive authoritarian was a giant coup. He resurrected a respect for the office of the prime minister and kept Thailand on the road to functioning democracy. Just as he promised, elections are here - and all parties can participate.
Thailand is at an important juncture in its political development. At the same time, danger lurks at every corner.
The man who has kept the balance of power, maintained political stability and gently guided Thailand toward real democracy has been in a hospital for more than a year - and will never likely come out alive. His majesty, the king has deftly navigated coups, reconciled political leaders, demanded resignations and ended strife for more than 60 years. The political downfall of prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra in 2006 due to charges of corruption has been said to have come with quiet endorsement from the palace.
But the key issue is definitely corruption.
Billionaire Shinawatra, the first duly elected prime minister to serve an entire five year term was said to have won the votes of Thailand's poorest classes largely by paying for them. The policies of his government led to a dramatic increase in the prime minister's personal wealth and charges of conflicts of interest and corruption ultimately ended his career.
In 2008, Shinawatra refused to return to Thailand, leading a Thai court to convict him of corruption in absentia and sentencing him to two years imprisonment. His refusal to return to the kingdom has placed him in self-imposed exile. His Thai passport has been revoked and this year, a court stripped him of more than $1.4 billion in already frozen assets.
Some feel Shinawatra was framed for being a successfully bringing a new party to power and taking on populist causes including his focus on the rural poor. Others say Shinwatra is an example of the corruption endemic to Thai politics.
Certainly, corruption and a strong hand by many of Thailand's wealthiest contingents propped up a series of military juntas that plagued Thailand's past.
However, in this new age of protests, passions and various ideas about how to make a better Thailand, democracy might be clearing the hurdle. Despite coups, protests and a prime minister selected by parliamentary agreement rather than open election, Thailand is back on track for another real and free election.
Thai leaders today face the challenge of a political cauldron. Keeping clean, being connected, capturing the hearts and minds of the people while also maintaining good relations at the palace is no small trick.
As an American, and a friend of Thailand, I'm encouraged by what I see. It's easy to have watched the TV news, seen images of Bangkok protests and conclude that Thailand is falling apart or far from being "there yet."
However, I think Thailand is very possibly on the cusp of reaching real and stable democracy.
Americans know better than anyone that a functioning, healthy democracy is not easy to achieve or maintain. We take our achievements for granted, sometimes overlook our own challenges and often forget what it took to get here. Years of civil war, reconstruction governments, child labor, women's rights, civil rights, race riots, Teapot Dome, Watergate, Iran Contras, Army-McCarthy hearings... all a part of the evolution of our liberal democracy. At one time, our Constitution counted a black man as three fifths of a person - and none of those fifths could vote.
The road to rights, freedoms and liberties isn't easy for anyone. In cultures throughout Asia where patriarchy remains valued and monarchs and authoritarian figures revered, paths and choices are different. Freedom isn't always valued at the cost of social cohesion. Developing a society with civil liberties and personal freedoms happens differently in different places.
That's why I'm so amazed at Thailand's leap toward being a place where people have come to really speak their minds, debate issues and make unprecedented choices.
I don't know if the man holding the poor child will win, or the woman and man standing side by side in their military uniforms. I don't know what they each stand for - and frankly, I don't care that much. The point is that they're there - delivering messages, giving people choices and fueling the discourse of freedom.
A female candidate stands at attention in her well-decorated naval uniform. An older man - with clearly died hair - has a wry smile with a look of wisdom. One middle aged man looks upward with a smile and his arms crossed - a visionary, a forward thinker.
Then there's another middle aged man with a series of different images - holding hands to his head in shock and exasperation, holding a poor, small child, holding a dog like a baby.... his face always animated with concern or frustration. He's my favorite. I know nothing about him and I'd probably vote for him.
The amazing part is that in a strange turn of events, Thailand has quickly developed into one of the most liberal and successful countries in Southeast Asia.
Unlike first-world economic powerhouse Singapore or more economically rising Malaysia to the south, Thailand's political landscape is far more diverse. It's had more than one party come to power and elections are truly free and open. Thais participate in an active democracy with strong political discourse. Choice has become real.
Of course, it's not without problems. Anyone who follows the news knows that Bangkok has seen its share of ongoing political protests and even a few riots over the past four years. Over the past eight years, there have been two coups and courts have overturned governments based on charges of corruption.
Last year, riots fueled by the opposition party became so violent and out of control that the Prime Minister Vejjajiva was caught between resigning or taking a forceful stand. He had been backed into a very difficult political corner. With incredible fortitude and no shortage of controversy, the young Oxford educated economist used force to end the riots, without declaring martial law or wholly crushing the opposition.
While I'm sure many would say otherwise, I believe that Vejjajiva's decisions helped restore, if not advance the idea of loyal opposition which is a critical ingredient in the recipe for democracy.
As Thais began to develop successful opposition movements and multiple voices in the long repressed political spectrum, they began the dangerous game of trying to nullify or coup whichever party had gained power. Parties brought "power to the people" by breaking down the system.
When this happens in most countries, it begins a downward spiral of political degradation that can easily lead to civil war and certainly to economic instability,
Somehow, Thais remained cohesive enough to continue tremendous economic progress despite political divisions.
Most importantly, Vejjajiva's decision not to back down, nor to become a repressive authoritarian was a giant coup. He resurrected a respect for the office of the prime minister and kept Thailand on the road to functioning democracy. Just as he promised, elections are here - and all parties can participate.
Thailand is at an important juncture in its political development. At the same time, danger lurks at every corner.
The man who has kept the balance of power, maintained political stability and gently guided Thailand toward real democracy has been in a hospital for more than a year - and will never likely come out alive. His majesty, the king has deftly navigated coups, reconciled political leaders, demanded resignations and ended strife for more than 60 years. The political downfall of prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra in 2006 due to charges of corruption has been said to have come with quiet endorsement from the palace.
But the key issue is definitely corruption.
Billionaire Shinawatra, the first duly elected prime minister to serve an entire five year term was said to have won the votes of Thailand's poorest classes largely by paying for them. The policies of his government led to a dramatic increase in the prime minister's personal wealth and charges of conflicts of interest and corruption ultimately ended his career.
In 2008, Shinawatra refused to return to Thailand, leading a Thai court to convict him of corruption in absentia and sentencing him to two years imprisonment. His refusal to return to the kingdom has placed him in self-imposed exile. His Thai passport has been revoked and this year, a court stripped him of more than $1.4 billion in already frozen assets.
Some feel Shinawatra was framed for being a successfully bringing a new party to power and taking on populist causes including his focus on the rural poor. Others say Shinwatra is an example of the corruption endemic to Thai politics.
Certainly, corruption and a strong hand by many of Thailand's wealthiest contingents propped up a series of military juntas that plagued Thailand's past.
However, in this new age of protests, passions and various ideas about how to make a better Thailand, democracy might be clearing the hurdle. Despite coups, protests and a prime minister selected by parliamentary agreement rather than open election, Thailand is back on track for another real and free election.
Thai leaders today face the challenge of a political cauldron. Keeping clean, being connected, capturing the hearts and minds of the people while also maintaining good relations at the palace is no small trick.
As an American, and a friend of Thailand, I'm encouraged by what I see. It's easy to have watched the TV news, seen images of Bangkok protests and conclude that Thailand is falling apart or far from being "there yet."
However, I think Thailand is very possibly on the cusp of reaching real and stable democracy.
Americans know better than anyone that a functioning, healthy democracy is not easy to achieve or maintain. We take our achievements for granted, sometimes overlook our own challenges and often forget what it took to get here. Years of civil war, reconstruction governments, child labor, women's rights, civil rights, race riots, Teapot Dome, Watergate, Iran Contras, Army-McCarthy hearings... all a part of the evolution of our liberal democracy. At one time, our Constitution counted a black man as three fifths of a person - and none of those fifths could vote.
The road to rights, freedoms and liberties isn't easy for anyone. In cultures throughout Asia where patriarchy remains valued and monarchs and authoritarian figures revered, paths and choices are different. Freedom isn't always valued at the cost of social cohesion. Developing a society with civil liberties and personal freedoms happens differently in different places.
That's why I'm so amazed at Thailand's leap toward being a place where people have come to really speak their minds, debate issues and make unprecedented choices.
I don't know if the man holding the poor child will win, or the woman and man standing side by side in their military uniforms. I don't know what they each stand for - and frankly, I don't care that much. The point is that they're there - delivering messages, giving people choices and fueling the discourse of freedom.
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